http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ Videomaker Forums » Forum: DVD Authoring, Burning & Duplicating - Recent Posts en Mon, 23 Nov 2009 22:03:00 +0000 http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/hd-video-on-a-sd-dvd#post-52388 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 03:51:08 +0000 EarlC 52388@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Check out Toast and its supporting software for doing just that - HD BluRay to SD DVD. I don't know the particulars, but if you run into a problem finding out or figuring it out, I'll see if I can relocate the post where I saw how someone is doing just that. A standard DVD will hold about 20 minutes of HD, I believe is what was claimed.</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/hd-video-on-a-sd-dvd#post-52382 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:56:12 +0000 Bobdenverfan 52382@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>I want my HD 1080I60 .mov to be HD on a SD-DVD. Or since I cant seem to get it this way. I want the best HD like quality for my DVDs that I burn.</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/dvd-media-quality-taiyo-yuden#post-51078 Fri, 25 Sep 2009 23:36:51 +0000 composite1 51078@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Wright,</p> <p>There are buttloads of blank media outlets. You'll just have to wade through them. Some good outfits I've dealt with are: uline.com, usaplastic.com (for cases) and shop4tech.com. </p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/dvd-media-quality-taiyo-yuden#post-51060 Thu, 24 Sep 2009 21:12:04 +0000 Wright Image 51060@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p> I make roughly 300 DVDs per year, authoring on DVD Studio Pro, and printing with an Epson ink-jet printer. My question is if anyone can suggest a place to buy top-quality (TYG01) Taiyo Yuden discs.</p> <p>I have been using TYG02 quality, the best quality that I have been able to find, from Supermediastore.com, and have had reasonably good luck avoiding quality issues like skipping or hesitation. (I have found from experience that anything less than TYG02 will give me problems (on my cheap "test" player - I have to assume some of my customers will not have the best players). However, on long programs (approaching 2 hours on a disc), I still have some occasional hesitation.</p> <p>I encode using Compressor, and never exceed 7 MBps encode rate.</p> <p>Any ideas would be appreciated.</p> <p>TWI </p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/8-mm-film-to-dv#post-50941 Sat, 19 Sep 2009 15:24:22 +0000 filmtodvds 50941@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Our company uses Cinema Systems units that use low power low heat LEDs, frame by frame capture, and sprocket-less drive mechanisms. It will not burn or chew up film. These units are usually too expensive for most consumers, but we do sell them and offer transfer services using these units</p> <p>--TW<br /> <a href="http://www.filmtodvds.com">Film to DVDs</a> </p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/dvd-mastering-tips#post-50793 Sun, 13 Sep 2009 20:10:23 +0000 EarlC 50793@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Underpowered laptop computers are notorious for "smooth" playback inconsistencies. All but the most powerfully equipped will occasionally, if not often, generate the "dropped frames" skips, stalls and other anomalies many experience.</p> <p>If the DVD plays correctly and smoothly in a REAL player then the faulty playback issue is most definitely with the laptop, and not the disk IMHO. </p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/dvd-mastering-tips#post-50787 Sun, 13 Sep 2009 02:32:42 +0000 timtrott 50787@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Thanks for the advice. </p> <p>The strange thing about this one is that the dropped frames only show up on my laptop. In a "real" DVD player the disk plays normally. </p> But I'm still going to switch master disks and record slower. I have some Phillips and LG disks. Maybe I'll do a comparison test. </p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/dvd-mastering-tips#post-50639 Mon, 07 Sep 2009 02:54:46 +0000 EarlC 50639@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Tim, if you go with Taiyo Yuden, 8x (4x if you can even find them) you will never be disappointed. The way you create your master will dictate dropped frames or other production abnormalities (unless your original footage had glitches, dropouts or buggy frames you did not, or could not correct and made it into the final master DVD.)</p> <p>With today's selections of DVD duplication towers, many of them fitted with hard drives to hold a "master" of your master DVD, or even accept USB or firewire input direct from your computer, you can create some really high quality DVD duplicates as many as 7, 10, even 15 or more at a time.</p> <p>Zoobie is spot on regarding dash DVD blanks as opposed to plus DVD blanks. When you purchase TY blanks be sure they are the premium graded and not the lesser grade some web site sellers offer. </p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/dvd-mastering-tips#post-50634 Sun, 06 Sep 2009 23:34:41 +0000 grinner 50634@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>of course, the slower the better. I never use 8X. If ya google verbatim disc errors, you'll see it's the number one offender. They are cheap but<br /> well they are cheap. I have a client that insists on buying me those for their DVDs. They are the only ones I (well they) aver have problems with. </p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/dvd-mastering-tips#post-50633 Sun, 06 Sep 2009 21:16:32 +0000 timtrott 50633@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Thanks for the excellent info</p> <p>The frame drops didn't appear until the project went to DVD. The disk is Verbatim DVD-R. I've used DVD+R in the past but I ran out of those. I normally save the DVD-R for duplication. I have seen some high priced special "mastering" DVD disks at a photo store and I had wondered if they really made any difference. </p> </p> <p>The bit rate was my first suspicion. I also wondered whether anti-virus programs or other things might have been interfering. I will also try using a lower copy rate. I think I had used 8X. </p> </p> <p>The machine should have plenty of memory and CPU speed. The project in question was completed before I got Premiere/Encore so I may try to encode to MP2 and try mastering in Encore. I haven't noticed the problem with other past projects.</p> </p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/dvd-mastering-tips#post-50530 Wed, 02 Sep 2009 10:18:51 +0000 zoobie 50530@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Probably to have the dups pressed...</p> <p>but next to that, since you're probably going to use an authoring program, my best tip is to first make your files compliant mpeg's using a good encoder like Procoder or HC (free). Then simply drop them into your authoring program making sure to tick the "do not re-encode compliant files" box they all have. This way, your full disc should be done in 20 minutes or so as opposed to taking 8 hours to make your disc or ISO by letting the authoring program itself convert your files. A lot of programs don't have progress bars and you don't know what it's doing all this time. Many fail in their conversion. With the above method, you'll quickly find out within 20 minutes if you've been successful because you've spent the time making them compliant beforehand.</p> <p>I usually burn at half the rating.<br /> With a perfect master, all you're doing is exact digital copying bit for bit.<br /> It will be obvious if you've dropped a frame long before you burn a disc.<br /> DVD-R's had a little bit better compatability but that was 5 years ago. It probably doesn't matter these days. I'm using +R's at the mo...<br /> One brand certainly is better than another. In fact, you'll find that cheap media is the #1 problem with DVD's. I'd recommend top of the line Taiyo Yuden (available online only) or Verbatim (available locally) media for all your discs. What's a whole 13 cents between friends? </p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/dvd-mastering-tips#post-50506 Tue, 01 Sep 2009 14:42:59 +0000 timtrott 50506@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Any tips for making a master DVD for duplication? </p> <p>What speed to use (4x, 8x?), how to avoid dropped frames, DVD - or + best to use? Is one brand better than another for the master? for the dupes? </p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/presentation-dvd#post-50504 Tue, 01 Sep 2009 14:36:34 +0000 timtrott 50504@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Actually you may be able to buy Encore separately... I did on eBay. Make sure, however, that you are not buying a pirate copy or a fake. You also didn't mention that Encore is a bit of a task to learn.</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/capturing-analogue-video#post-50124 Sun, 16 Aug 2009 05:40:58 +0000 EarlC 50124@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>REVISED response: OKAYYYYYYYYYY...what I do not see is a shot of the SCART connector outputs. Seems there's a cable "out there" that would go from RCA to 1/8 mini. Is THAT what  you are using to connect audio. If so, your RCA audio out (white plug/left audio out on SCART for mono only) to audio in on the converter should be working, unless the cable or SCART connection is defective.</p> <p>Screen shots of the areas of connectivity on your units would be extremely helpful in others coming forward with usable suggestions. Some of us are not getting it regarding some of your explanations and visuals would certainly "help" in our desire to respond with good information.</p> <p>For example, I use a SCART-RCA converter on the back of my old, reliable Casablanca self-contained editing system for monitor out. It ONLY has three RCA pin-plugs - two for LR (red &amp; white plugs) audio out, one for video (yellow) out. There is NO S-Video out on my SCART. I've seen several of these and have yet to see one with an S-Video out connection.</p> <p>So, when you say you are running from the video out of the SCART to the S-Video in on your "capture" device, how are you doing this unless you have a SCART with such an output (I know just because I've never seen a SCART with one, doesn't mean it does not exist, but...)? Or, are  you using a RCA-S-Video converter cable?</p> <p>Again, images, however poor, of the connections on both units would be very helpful. Guess I could also go to the links you provided initially in case I'm talking out of turn. Will do that now, then edit this reponse accordingly.</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/capturing-analogue-video#post-50122 Sat, 15 Aug 2009 21:10:13 +0000 Brian Fisher 50122@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Hmm..</p> <p>It seems like all you need is three cables going out,the left and right RCA audio(red and white) out which you should plug into the RCA in for left and right to your capture card and the Video(yellow) RCA out or S-Video out to the RCA or S-Video in on your capture card.</p> <p>I am confused whether you have S-video or RCA video.</p> <p><a title="DVD and Film Services" href="http://www.dvdduplication.net">DVD and Film Services</a></p> <p> </p> <p> </p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/capturing-analogue-video#post-49832 Thu, 06 Aug 2009 00:44:25 +0000 arthouse 49832@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>I'm somewhat surprised by your suggestions to buy a new VCR. I bought a Scart - RCA converter for £1 (about $1.70) and now have video working. I'm now left with just audio to fix. I'm still confused. To clarify, I now have a 3 RCA inputs where the Scart plug was, and one of the inputs is now taken up with a single RCA video input which connects to the S-video input on the capture device. This leaves two stereo RCA inputs at the back of the VCR which I've connected (with another RCA lead) to the Audio IN jack input at the back of the capture device. The Audio OUT I've connected (via 3.5mm jack to jack lead) to the Line-In input on my soundcard. Does anyone know if this is correct? I'm trying to establish whether I've got it wrong or whether it's faulty device (which I think is unlikely). Any help would be great. Thanks.</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/dvd-duplication#post-49814 Wed, 05 Aug 2009 17:58:50 +0000 svtcobraltd 49814@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>I make about 20-30 copies within a month or so at one point during the year.  The rest of the time is 1-2 here and there.  Should I just stick with the Adobe Encore I have been burning with or would a cloning system be better?</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/is-necessary-to-convert-pal-footage-to-ntsc#post-49810 Wed, 05 Aug 2009 16:45:04 +0000 Omtech 49810@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p> </p> <p>Hi, I am from South Africa. there are so many DVD here that we play in NTSC even when I was congo, Rwanda.  And sometimes I do my project in PAL or NTSC and and have evr have someone come back to me to complain.  Anyway David is right, nero can do all for you but why not stating your projet in PAL from begining? or else your encore project can be in PAL.</p> <p>Thank you</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/capturing-analogue-video#post-49801 Wed, 05 Aug 2009 12:38:54 +0000 Johnboy 49801@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>the easiest path is a new vcr</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/movie-edit-pro-14-need-help-burning-a-dvd#post-49798 Wed, 05 Aug 2009 09:42:11 +0000 david5566 49798@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>you do not give too much details. But for burning a dvd with Movie Edit Pro, I think one thing must be figured out. The one you are specifically interested in is the "Disc images:" path.  This is the folder where MEP creates the actual DVD disc images during encoding.  It then burns those images to your DVD.<br />As an extra note, MEP never automatically deletes these images, which means they will eventually fill up your HDD.  Believe me, I learned this the hard way.  After I'm sure my DVD plays correctly, I always go back and delete those files.Hopefully, this solves your problem.</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/is-necessary-to-convert-pal-footage-to-ntsc#post-49793 Wed, 05 Aug 2009 05:34:28 +0000 zoobie 49793@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p> No</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/capturing-analogue-video#post-49777 Tue, 04 Aug 2009 19:07:02 +0000 arthouse 49777@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Tech girl actually, thanks ;) Presumptions! I'm unemployed so I'd rather avoid unneccesary purchases. If there are no other options, then sure I'd consider getting another VCR. But I'd still like to know whether I can get my current setup to work. Any ideas?</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/capturing-analogue-video#post-49771 Tue, 04 Aug 2009 14:56:39 +0000 tomskowronski 49771@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p> hmmm, no offense i know that you're a tech guy and want to figure this out.... but why wouldn't you just run to a pawn shop and buy a vcr for $12 that has the a/v inputs?</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/capturing-analogue-video#post-49757 Tue, 04 Aug 2009 02:06:26 +0000 arthouse 49757@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>I want to capture some analogue video from my VCR (old videos, maybe transfer them to DVD or upload to YouTube) to my PC. I have an old Goodmans VCR that only has RF connections and one scart socket at the back (see this photo <a href="http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/csplace/prof/DSC00002.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/csplace/prof/DSC00002.jpg</a> ). There are no other input/outputs, no RCA/phono for audio. My analogue capture card/TV tuner looks like this - <a href="http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/csplace/prof/DSC00003.jpg" rel="nofollow">http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y56/csplace/prof/DSC00003.jpg</a> . So it has S-Video, AV in, an Audio out + Audio in (phono) and an RF aerial socket. Can I get both video and audio to my computer if I run an RF cable from the 'Antenna Out' at the back of the VCR to the RF connection on my capture device? Can I even get video? I'm confused about this because every article on the internet about this suggest that I need to use an RCA 'red/white/yellow' cable. But since I don't have this option at the back of my VCR, what can I do? Do I need some kind of converter? I want both video AND audio in sync.</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/dvd-duplication#post-49740 Mon, 03 Aug 2009 19:50:42 +0000 JonDurand 49740@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p> </p> <p>Just had a great experience working with these guys on a DVD duplication project. I would recommend Video Copy Services to anyone.</p> <p> <a href="http://www.video-copy.com/" rel="nofollow">http://www.video-copy.com/</a> </p> <p> </p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/is-necessary-to-convert-pal-footage-to-ntsc#post-49732 Mon, 03 Aug 2009 08:40:25 +0000 david5566 49732@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>I've never used abobe cs4 before, but for creating DVD, Nero is better choice. Nero will ask you whether you want pal output stream or ntsc output stream, so just select what you want. All done! </p> <p> </p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/is-necessary-to-convert-pal-footage-to-ntsc#post-49668 Fri, 31 Jul 2009 05:58:57 +0000 darkmilonguero 49668@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Hi, I live in Latin America and I have a Sony HVR-A1 PAL. Here, most players and TV sets are both PAL-NTSC, but now I've been asked to create a DVD for selling abroad, specially Europe and South Africa.</p> <p>I will appreciate if you could tell me if is necessary the transconding, or not. I guess that NTSC for DVDs is the standard format and most compatible. For USA and Japan I believe is it really necessary.</p> <p>I use Adobe CS4 products. How is the best way to convert the PAL footage to NTSC with this suite? I am shooting HDV but the final product is DVD. I can stand a little of image degradation, as this is not for broadcast, but the best quality, the better.</p> <p> </p> <p>Thank you</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/dvd-does-not-work-after-printing#post-49476 Sun, 26 Jul 2009 15:35:33 +0000 sredbarn 49476@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Thanks for your help.  I think I have figured out the problem.</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/dvd-does-not-work-after-printing#post-49471 Sun, 26 Jul 2009 07:42:29 +0000 cfulton 49471@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>I'm wondering about the quality of your DVDs. If you're using some el-cheapo printable blanks, it could be that the aluminum layer is too thin, so that the ink used for printing actually changes the reflectivity of the disc. We've heard some reports that it works better if you print the discs before you burn them for this reason. That way, the burner can perform optimum power calibration calculations based on the reflectivity, including the label.</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/dvd-does-not-work-after-printing#post-49470 Sun, 26 Jul 2009 02:24:28 +0000 sredbarn 49470@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>I just burned a DVD with 6.2 G.   After burning I viewed the DVD and it worked great.  I have an Imation D20 burner and printer the burner is acting up so I did not use it.  I printed the DVD's and now I have 30 worthless DVD's because none of my DVD players will read it.  I have never had this problem before does anyone have any ideas?</p>