http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ Videomaker Forums » Tag: camera - Recent Posts en Mon, 23 Nov 2009 13:39:08 +0000 http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/shopping-for-a-new-camera#post-51483 Tue, 20 Oct 2009 18:20:21 +0000 composite1 51483@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>For the unending hordes of newbies that come to the forums to ask 'What camera should I buy?' and for those of you who are seriously looking for camera / audio gear, here's a good video from Videopiea with tips to help you avoid getting fleeced when purchasing gear online.</p> <p> </p> <p><a href="http://vimeo.com/2349953"></a></p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/film-camera-quality#post-51416 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 17:54:39 +0000 composite1 51416@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Naish,</p> <p>Having shot with film cameras  a while ago, I can say it all comes down to 'you get what you pay for'. Yeah, more often than not your 'paying for the name' but film cameras just like video cameras you're also paying for the features and quality that comes with the name. How often if ever, does the film jam in transport? How reliable are the seals that keep out dust and light? How durable are the film holders? How heavy is the camera fully loaded? Do you have a VTR feed so you can monitor your shots as you shoot? There are dozens of other questions that could be asked concerning a film camera in question. I can say that the more of those questions a single camera is capable of addressing positively adds to the cost of the unit. Bell and Howell makes some great rigs, but Arri makes the cameras that most films get made with. There's a big difference between journeyman gear and top of the line gear whether it's film or video related. The best way to learn the difference is to use both.</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/film-camera-quality#post-51402 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 01:01:21 +0000 naish54 51402@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p> Im not sure if this is the place for this question, seeing as how all the questions i see are video related, but ill ask anyway.</p> <p>what makes a film camera good? why do the arri's cost 10's of thousands of dollars when i can get a bell and howell for a few hundred. obviously the settings on the camera have to be precise and the lens has to be up to par. isnt film stock...film, if you get the high quailtiy stuff?</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/newbie-needs-advice#post-51393 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 07:27:54 +0000 EarlC 51393@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Occasionally sync can be problematic. There's no literal "magic" formula that works on first try, every try, but with some degree of practice and familiarity with your audio editing software you can really get close on first try, then bump forward or back a few clicks until things sync up.</p> <p>Being an accomplished lip reader does give me an edge on this, just has having been a touch typist since I was in junior high (I'm 60 now, do the math :-) has always given me an edge in typing. That's probably why all my stuff is longer and occasionally more definitive than others who hate to read, or write, or type. I was the only one also that did not groan out loud in class when a professor would as for a 500-word essay or whatever. If anything, maybe I DID groan but it was because I wasn't sure HOW I was going to keep the assignment UNDER 500 words.</p> <p>Sorry for the sidetrack there...</p> <p>...anyway the amount of "extra" work depends on how much you have to labor in post because all you had was your "synced" camera audio, but there were problems with sound, depth, etc. or simply lining up the GREAT audio from your backup source, syncing it once, maybe a few more if  you have to break up sequences in the video, but essentially dealing with nice, clean, clear audio.</p> <p>Another thing that is great, in addition to the quality of that digitally acquired audio is being able to "normalize" the levels between proper audio levels due to proximity, and some lower stuff picked up from farther away, making the levels sweeten up really nice.</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/newbie-needs-advice#post-51392 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 04:18:08 +0000 flaubert 51392@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>ok..different<br /> than i thought...I'm just concerned that this may be more work in post<br /> production than simply having the audio already synced to the video.  In post production, how do I<br /> sync up the audio file to the mouth movements of the speakers on the video<br /> file?</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/newbie-needs-advice#post-51385 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 23:35:35 +0000 EarlC 51385@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>No, the Zoom is a standalone digital recorder and you can use a USB card reader to transfer the files from the card to your computer. I use TOAST to convert the files to AIFF because that's what I like to do though there are certainly others ways to handle the WAV files it produces. You don't need the adapter for this type of audio acquisition.</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/newbie-needs-advice#post-51379 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 19:39:44 +0000 flaubert 51379@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Earl, i bought a refurb'd GL2 yesterday. I should begin shooting in a week or two.  I intend to buy a Zoom H2 either tonight or tomorrow.  Do I neeed the Canon MA-300 Adapter for the Zoom?</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/searching-cheap-pro-camera#post-51228 Wed, 07 Oct 2009 02:48:51 +0000 composite1 51228@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Ophelia,</p> <p>To see the 'Shootout' video on VM, go to; Forums - General Questions - Advanced Info page 4. There you can read the discussions or you can go straight to; zacuto.com and watch the video there. Enjoy.</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/searching-cheap-pro-camera#post-51226 Wed, 07 Oct 2009 01:29:32 +0000 ophelia 51226@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>&gt;&gt; <em>If you are serious about a real prosumer or mid-level pro camera, watch the 'Shootout' video on the 'Advanced Info' thread.</em>&lt;&lt;</p> <p>Hello, could someone point me in the direction of this particular video, mentioned by "Composite 1 " earlier in this discussion?</p> <p>Thanks!</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/newbie-needs-advice#post-51223 Tue, 06 Oct 2009 20:58:50 +0000 EarlC 51223@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>I've used the GL2 and the XL1 (a pair) for a long, long time. XLs have given me more grief than the GL. On rare occasion, when I've had to intermix tape brands, or occasionally in a windy, sandy, salt air and sea, snow going in and out of the cold, I've had some issues, but they've been predominantly environmentally generated, or from mixing tape brands/stock. Major heat and hot winds, during firestorms - like are experienced in the southern California area, can cause some grief, but the camera is stable, dependable and productive.</p> <p>I had "issues" with the defunct Amiga Toaster/Flyer, others didn't; Others have had "issues" with Panasonic, or Sony, or TDK, or other tape stocks - I did until I went, and stuck, with Sony Premium. Some people hate Memorex or TDK DVD blanks, I haven't. Poop happens, but I'll NOT be selling or off-loading my Canons even when I DO change brands and go with the Panasonic HMC-150 or JVC's 100 version both abandoning tape and offering SDHC card recording instead - no more tape path wear, or "remove cassette" problems.</p> <p>If Canon comes out with a comparably priced SDHC only, no tape, recordable unit at a competitive price before I am ready to invest in the new tools I will stay with Canon simply because of their superior lens quality and superior image stabilization quality.</p> <p>YOU have to make the decision. Read widely enough and go far enough and you will read negative input about most ANY brand or model on the market since the 1800's (a joke) - some people LOVE liver, others HATE it; same for anchovies.</p> <p>Me? Hold the liver, but put that gravy on my potatoes; no anchovies on the pizza or I will NEVER come back to RoundTable :-)</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/newbie-needs-advice#post-51221 Tue, 06 Oct 2009 16:08:41 +0000 flaubert 51221@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Hi Earl, i'm considering purchasing a GL2 instead of renting, but i see that relative to sony and panasonic prosumer models, the GL2 has a lot of negative reviews on the amazon.  Almost all of them complain about "remove cassette" errors or "inabilaty to rewind".  Any thoughts on this issue?</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/need-a-video-camera#post-51194 Sun, 04 Oct 2009 17:36:03 +0000 The shooter 51194@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>I suggest the Panasonic PV-GS320. Simple cam, easy to use with image stabilization. It has manual shutter speed and offers Firewire connection. Good luck!</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/need-a-video-camera#post-51176 Sat, 03 Oct 2009 04:54:34 +0000 gam40000 51176@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>hey guys, </p> <p>so I have some experience in video making but I want to get into it more buy purchasing a camcorder,</p> <p> </p> <p>so what I am looking for is a relitivley cheap camer $300-500ish that has a high quality picture (or HD) and can capture images that are going really fast (say 300fps or a paintball) well you get what i mean that it can capture fast moving objects and not blur. so basicly</p> <li>Fast Shutter Speed </li> <li>Manual Control </li> <li>Image Stabilization </li> <li>Large Zoom</li> <li>Low Light Performance </li> <li>Easy to Use </li> <p>but mainly I just want to have a camera to make movies with my friends, not full length productions just a short 5-12 min videos for my school and such, </p> <p>also what would be a good editing software to get that is easy for a beginner like me to get and how much it costs and where i can get it/ download it.</p> <p> </p> <p>Thanks for reading this and helping me out, like I said I am new to Video making so I am not sure if what I said is exactly industry speak / terms soÃ??Ã?  laugh if you want,</p> <p> </p> <p>but really thanks guys anything you say will help me out</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/newbie-needs-advice#post-51159 Fri, 02 Oct 2009 09:30:41 +0000 EarlC 51159@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>There are many variables and I am not knowledgeable enough to explain in layman's terms the various compression formulas and results. Basically, simple ingestion/digitizing of DV video from a MiniDV videotape used in a GL2 has a minimum requirement of 13 GB per hour. What you do with it, how you work with it, the compression schemes you use on it, your computer, software and DVD output, or web site output size and many other variables will directly effect the size of the files you work with.</p> <p>Digital video applied with standard DV/DVCPRO compression takes up about 250 megabytes per minute or 13 gigabytes per hour.</p> <p>An example video can have a <strong>duration (T)</strong> of 1 hour (3600<em>sec</em>), a frame size of 640x480 <em>(WxH)</em> at a color depth of 24<em>bits</em> and a frame rate of 25<em>fps</em>. This example video has the following properties:</p> <ul> <li><strong>pixels per frame</strong> = 640 * 480 = 307,200</li> <li><strong>bits per frame</strong> = 307,200 * 24 = 7,372,800 = 7.37<em>Mbits</em></li> <li><strong>bit rate (BR)</strong> = 7.37 * 25 = 184.25<em><strong>Mbits/sec</strong></em></li> <li><strong>video size (VS)</strong> = 184<em>Mbits/sec</em> * 3600<em>sec</em> = 662,400<em>Mbits</em> = 82,800<em>Mbytes</em> = 82.8<em><strong>Gbytes</strong></em></li> </ul> <p>My editing workstation is a Mac Pro 8-core unit with 16 gigs of RAM memory. I have installed three terabytes of hard drive storage set up exclusively for video resources. My system drive is a 350 GB unit. I like having plenty of resource storage space. HD capacity and storage is comparatively cheap and it is not wise in today's video editing environments to cheap out on storage. More is always better, and I like having the options to take on a short 8-min montage with some fancy production work, or a movie-length project with gobs of resource materials, a wedding project and anything between. I often have more than one project under way at a time.</p> <p>In my previous systems I often was under nourished with storage capacity and had to reuse hard drives before I was willing to erase the original work files. Consequently there were times when situations called for me returning to a project and I had to go through the digitizing process all over again. I hope to never have to go that route again.</p> <p>In another system I had a series of hard drives in sleds that I could exchange from project to project. That was a GREAT system to work with, and I continue that with external storage capacities beyond my 3TB work drives. My Drobo and some a couple of jbods (just a bunch of hard drives) help me keep resources at hand, but off my primary production HDs. I can fire them up as needed, access resources as needed, and continue with my work flow without interrupting the creative process while locating something on a back up HD, CD, DVD or elsewhere. There's a lot to be said about being able to sustain your focus and productive juices without having to stop and think...</p> <p>...sometimes. :-)</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/newbie-needs-advice#post-51155 Fri, 02 Oct 2009 02:01:27 +0000 flaubert 51155@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>thanks Earl, I'm a bit confused - regarding SD/GL2 you mention a requirement of both 13GB and 82.8GB.  Which one applies to me in my situation?</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/newbie-needs-advice#post-51146 Thu, 01 Oct 2009 19:26:46 +0000 EarlC 51146@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>RE: the Zoom H2 digital audio recorder = GREAT, clear, crisp, clean audio with minimum effort. Audio, especially for your intended purpose, is TOP PRIORITY! And though decent enough under controlled taping sessions, the GL2 on-camera mic picks up internal sounds from the tape mechanism, and other hard to isolate sound interruptions.</p> <p>Disclaimer: I am NOT PC centric, nor do I have even a modicum of working knowledge of the platform and its various components or available operating or editing systems. That being said...</p> <p>Desktop, generally speaking, is always better because (with admitted exceptions) desktop systems are more robust and capable. So, yes, "doing all this stuff" on your desktop is probably beneficial.</p> <p>If your system has firewire (still a lot of 400 out there, but 800 is better and faster) then yes you can usually purchase the required cable/connection at most electronics stores. Prices vary, as does quality, but don't let the salesperson snow you into some ultra-awesome monster cable with gold plating - not always all that and a cheeseburger. You can usually find better pricing and value at on-line, web-centric outlets like <a href="http://www.supermediastore.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.supermediastore.com</a> or <a href="http://www.cdrdvdrmedia.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.cdrdvdrmedia.com</a> or <a href="http://www.microcenter.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.microcenter.com</a> etc.</p> <p>You WILL NEED a video/graphics card. Google for recommendations for your particular computers - primarily the desktop - with at least 512 memory, preferably higher. There are two or three reputable brand names, but you'll have to do this research on your own.</p> <p>DO NOT use your system drive for processing video! Period! Use another drive(s) dedicated to processing/editing video - external firewire, SATA (skip USB, even USB2 simply isn't up to snuff for dealing with video editing, though some will tell you it works fine. Nada.</p> <p>You're going to need large capacity drives, external or internal. You will need to find a way to determine how well your PC deals with extra memory, and high capacity drives, as there often are, or can be, limitations to what a specific system will utilize and I don't have the answers.</p> <p>It is widely accepted that NTSC, DV, Standard Definition (the GL2, tape recordable digital MiniDV camcorder, for example) will result in your computer needing about 13 GB per hour. HDV, on the other hand, requires anywhere from 38-50 GB per hour; UHDV (ultra high def) chimes in at 100 GB = 18 mins, or six GB per min. Do the math, verify your PC's ability and/or limits for high capacity HDs, then buy a couple, perhaps a few.</p> <p>NTSC = 1.5 GB per min<br /> DVCPro HD = 1 GB per min, or according to Wikipedia, approximately 250MB per min/13 GB per hour.<br /> Cineform compressed HDV takes 30-40 GB per hour<br /> Uncompressed, 1440 x 1080 = 234 GB per hour</p> <p>In other words, one hour of Standard Definition (SD - the GL2) at 640x480 (also 720x480 a bit more), at 24-bit color depth, and 25 fps (frames per second) frame rate will require 82.8 GB. </p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/newbie-needs-advice#post-51142 Thu, 01 Oct 2009 15:38:31 +0000 flaubert 51142@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Thank Earl for the advice. I will rent the GL2. I also will check out YouTube. Let me correct my earlier post… </p> <p>My desktop (purchased in 2005)- Pentium 4 processor at 2.67GHz. RAM of 512MB, upgradable to 2GB. Read/write DVD drive. Internal drive of 80GB, with an external drive of 160GB.</p> <p>My laptop (purchased in 2009) - Intel Atom processor at 1.6GHz. RAM of 1.0GB, upgradable to 2GB. No read/write capability. </p> <p>Question#1: Isn't it better to be doing all this stuff on my desktop?</p> <p>Question#2: Regarding the “firewire” (I’m really ignorant on this stuff), is this simply a “wire” that I buy at Best Buy, for example, and plug one end into the camcorder, the other end into the back of my computer somewhere? Or the other end into my external hard drive? And then press a button of some sort?<br /> Question#3: Do I have to check to see if my system has a “video card”?<br /> Question#4: How much free space do I need to have on my internal and external hard drives, respectively, before I begin ?<br /> Question #5: Why would the Zoom H2 be best for my situation? </p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/newbie-needs-advice#post-51136 Wed, 30 Sep 2009 23:31:57 +0000 EarlC 51136@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>IMHO...<br /> Do NOT buy a GL1 for ANY price. Borrow only! Even then...</p> <p>Rent, or even purchase a GL2 and shoot SD. GL2s can be found for around $1,500, even less sometimes, by searching other forums' for sale boards - <a href="http://www.wedvidpro.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.wedvidpro.com</a> <a href="http://www.dvprofessionals.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.dvprofessionals.com</a> <a href="http://www.videouniversity.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.videouniversity.com</a> here at <a href="http://www.videomaker.com" rel="nofollow">http://www.videomaker.com</a> for starters. I recently posted here somewhere regarding a couple I know personally who were selling off three GL2s for an outstanding value to recoup their investment in HD Canons - XH A1s, I believe. The original ad was on dvprofessionals.</p> <p>Rent, or purchase a used XL1 (original model) - their prices didn't/haven't held up as well as the GL2s, but it remains an awesome camera.</p> <p>Your HV10/20 isn't a stinker, though kind of small and low on the production pole. They'll work, but you will need to learn a number of workarounds regarding light and audio. Check here for good tips and suggestions regarding both. Videomaker is tops when it comes to solid basic production information.</p> <p>If you stick primarily with cuts only your PC should be useable. (I am NOT at all familiar with PCs but I would think it should at least be able to help you produce something) Your RAM is low, go at least 4 (RAM is relatively cheap) if your unit will accommodate four. You WILL want and need at least that. Be prepared to wait a considerable amount of time for rendering if you use slow motion or dissolves much.</p> <p>If any camera you purchase gets you producing and those projects are successful then there will be NO net loss - it's a write off, or throwaway as they say amongst those in the business who claim to know it all :-)</p> <p>The rental for a week seems in line with your needs.</p> <p>GL2 is pretty user friendly and a few hours of practice, testing all the bells and whistles will get you close to ready, if not ready. Also, it is VERY important to try and keep your backgrounds static (no motion, blowing leaves, moving vehicles, belly dancers, etc. :-)</p> <p>...and keep the background as uncluttered, busy and no red as possible. If you go to YouTube and search for "practice builders" I think, I hope you will find at least a couple of talking head productions we did using the GL2 for a marketing services client who works with folks in the medical profession. If you cannot find let me know and I will try to better identify the links later.</p> <p>I do not have personal hands-on knowledge of the VX2100, but I know many in the business who have used them and STILL are reluctant to allow them prized from their cold, dead fingers.</p> <p>Finally, trust your audio to at least one, two if possible, Zoom H2 standalone digital microphones. They are awesome! you should be able to find them for under $200.</p> <p>If you plan your episodes well you should be able to shoot a heck of a lot of instructional video footage in a week's time using a rental camera, but you will definitely want your own equipment ASAP. Maybe an HMC-150 Panasonic or the comparable JVC - both HD and both tapeless to SDHC cards, the wave of the future, but then you're gonna need to spring for more power in the editing arena.</p> <p>Hope this helps. </p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/newbie-needs-advice#post-51132 Wed, 30 Sep 2009 20:33:15 +0000 flaubert 51132@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Earl, thanks for the reply. I've been reading for most of the last day or two. I've learned that my PC is strong enough to edit HD (processor is only 1.6ghz and the pc will only accept 2gb of ram max). I dont want to spring $400-500 for a more powerful refurbed pc. So...what if I filmed in SD? Will a processor of 1.6ghz and ram of 1gb be sufficient to edit SD? </p> <p>If so, I think I have these camera options:</p> <p>Buy an HV10 or 20. I believe the HV10 &#38; 20 also shoot in SD (just need to see if it the 10 has a mic and headphone jack). I saw them in the $450 range. </p> <p>Buy a used GL1 for $900, use it for say a month, then sell it for $500 (I’m guessing). Incurr a net loss of $400. </p> <p>Rent a GL2 for anywhere from two ($118) to six ($185) days . My question with renting is how long will it take me (a complete newbie) to learn how to use a GL2 properly?(bearing in mind this is an instructional only, with head shots, close ups, not much movement, etc.) The VX2100 is similarly priced if that’s any easier. Thanks again for your input.</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/newbie-needs-advice#post-51120 Tue, 29 Sep 2009 18:40:41 +0000 EarlC 51120@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>"Seeing that I am a newbie, I want to buy a camera that will make this whole process as simple as possible. Thanks." - Flaubert.</p> <p>Just the camera, HD or SD, and at a budget of $700 will NOT address all the questions, nor simplify the process as much as you hope. You have a LOT of serious needs, and knowledge to gain, before you can expect to develop such a project, or even hope to generate a marketing success.</p> <p>That's the bad news. The good news is that anyone who is determined, aggressive, a fast-learner, and has the drive and ambition to carry it to fruition can achieve success in a venture like the one you plan.</p> <p>If you can, identify a camera that will shoot HD and SD, and use SD if you HAVE to, but HD preferably. You will likely have to down convert to edit, but you might consider (if you have access to the editing environment necessary - or budget you haven't mentioned) doing it all in HD, then creating an SD DVD product for market. It will still look better than starting out with a standard SD only camera, as a rule. Conversion can be difficult, or easier, depending on your available editing environment.</p> <p>You can edit either way, depending on your available editing equipment or budget and resulting acquisition.</p> <p>Do voice-over and or dubbing yourself, or find among your friends and acquaintances people who can offer decent voice talent. Exploit them. Or, seek similar at your local institutions of higher education. It will not complicate the conversion, again depending on your editing environment, and most editing options today offer some degree of audio editing capabilities - you will need to move past such software as Microsoft MovieMaker though. Also, depending on your editing capabilities, it will not necessarily "complicate" the process, but could become more complex, depending on your intent and needs.</p> <p>Regarding file formats - different strokes for different folks (and projects). It will likely depend on what you shoot with HD, HDV, ACVHD, or other, and what your editing system will accept and allow you to edit with. I wouldn't be able to guarantee you which format is the "most popular" and you "should care" at this point to the extent that it will have a direct bearing on your acquisition, editing and marketing process eventually.</p> <p>Others will pipe in here. Others will be more, or less ambiguous, have stronger feelings and offer their highly opinionated input, or subjective, or objective, or even write from experience. That is all well and good. Some will ask more questions before, if ever, addressing your questions. Read it all, absorb what you think might help, do a LOT of research and try to increase your budget for everything, starting with the camera.</p> <p>Good luck. Mostly you will only need a little good luck, a lot of personal commitment and some extra bucks. :-) </p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/newbie-needs-advice#post-51118 Tue, 29 Sep 2009 18:04:47 +0000 flaubert 51118@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Hi, I intend to shoot an instructional video staring myself and an associate. I will edit the footage myself, and create the final product. The video will be shot indoors and outdoors and focus on do-it-yourself home improvment issues. Consumers will purchase the video and either download it online or recieve a dvd in the mail. I don't want to rent, so I will buy a camera and a mic. My budget for the camera is about $700.<br /> Question #1 - should I buy an SD or HD camera? Will HD footage need to be converted to SD in order for consumers to view it as a download or dvd? Is it difficult to convert HD to SD?<br /> Question #2 - Do I edit once it is in SD format? Regardless, what software should I use?<br /> Question #3 - I need voiceover (or dubbing - not sure of the correct term here) as well as live sound. How do I do this? Will this complicate the conversion to SD? Will it complicate the editing process?<br /> Question #4 - Should my file be an mpeg format, or something different? What is the most popular format? Should I care at this point?<br /> Seeing that I am a newbie, I want to buy a camera that will make this whole process as simple as possible. Thanks.</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/camera-interchangeable-mini35-and-more-advice#post-51089 Sun, 27 Sep 2009 01:28:01 +0000 XTR-91 51089@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Have you checked the <a href="http://pro.jvc.com/prof/attributes/specs.jsp?model_id=MDL101845&#38;feature_id=03">JVC GY-HM100U</a> - a $4,000 compact pro camcorder with excellent picture reproduction. Low light performance isn't one of its greatest strengths, though. If you're looking to record indoors without the use of external lighting, I'd go with one of Canon's GL or XL models.</p> <p><a href="http://www.videomaker.com/article/14426/">http://www.videomaker.com/article/14426/</a></p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/camera-interchangeable-mini35-and-more-advice#post-51079 Sat, 26 Sep 2009 00:00:40 +0000 composite1 51079@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Heartzz and Mat,</p> <p>Canon makes some great cams and the XLH and XH series are some of their best non-ENG/Studio grade rigs. Heartzz, you're going to spend way more than $6k for the XLH1a and forget about the XLH1s.</p> <p>Though I love Sony's pro cam's I hate their prosumer lines not because they don't get great imagery, but because Sony is notorious for whippin' out a new format every couple of years! That and their product support ain't stellar for the bucks you shell out. </p> <p>I'm seriously leaning towards Canon's 5DMkII and the 7D DSLR's. Stupid high-res HD, more lens choices than you can shake a stick at and best of all, cheap. You figure you could take that $6k, get a 5DMk II a full mattebox kit from Redrock or Zacuto, 32GB class 6 flash media cards, Kata or Porta-Brace camera bag, a pro lightweight tripod, a stripped down macbook pro or a gassed up built-to-order PC laptop, CS4 production suite and maybe have enough left over for a decent 3-light kit.</p> <p>Mat RRM's MicroX Flip accessory would be an extra $554.00 + Shipping. With a 5k budget you might want to take a look at the Canon DSLR's too. </p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/need-advise-on-setting-up-studio-and-buying-equimpment#post-51077 Fri, 25 Sep 2009 23:31:41 +0000 composite1 51077@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Bri,</p> <p>I hear you about the 1080p thing, but 1080p is old hat too! 2k is coming up fast and with the digital SLR's, you can work in 5k right now. Also, on a recent forum posting the 2160p format by Pioneer was showcased. So that 10-20 years for 1080p is fading fast. </p> <p>If Titan were trying to outfit his setup with prosumer or better gear, my suggestion would be a multi-format HD rig. That way if clients asked for a specific format he could just chunk it out. However, he's doing this as an in-house gig to display his co's product line. </p> <p>IMO as a production consultant, I would advise against going any higher in resolution. Since Titan's on the low, low budget end and at this stage of his involvement he can get some good 720p consumer cam's cheap and won't have the higher storage requirements that come with full HD. Right now the KISS Program is the best thing for his operation. </p> <p>I agree, 1080p is better than 720p, but if you're down-resing to dv for the web nobody's going to know the diff unless it's somebody like you or me. And you called it, 720p gear is going for bargain basement prices which is great if you're just trying to get started. And you're also dead-on about matching up your elements (i.e. all 720p, 1080p, etc.) </p> <p>When you don't have loads of Dinars to chuck at gear and software purchases, being just slightly behind the trend can still get you in the game. Besides, sooner than later whatever gear you buy is going to be outdated before you want it to be. </p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/need-advise-on-setting-up-studio-and-buying-equimpment#post-51064 Fri, 25 Sep 2009 02:54:13 +0000 HDVideoPro 51064@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>I can honestly agree with most everything composit1 said.</p> <p>The one thing I might do differently is to go ahead and get the 1080p cameras.</p> <p>Here's why:</p> <p>1. 1080 24p is the best video to encode in web video<br /> (it has to do with High quality - Low band-with)</p> <p>2. SD and 720p are old technology - both are being sold at bargain bin pricing to unsuspecting cutomers and business to clear out stock and use up old manufacturing equipment. ( I would know - I helped develop and test the latest software to run 1080p screens)</p> <p>3. Also as an editor - mixing different resolutions can be a pain - since you will be doing this it's best to stick with one format so you understand size, technical requirements, encoding time, format delivery, quality, etc.</p> <p>4. even though you will hear about higher resolution stuff being invented - 1080p will be our standard for the next 10-20 years at least. (there's just no reason to have a 4K TV in your house? It's a case of diminishing return.</p> <p>So as my last thought for the evening - when you pick out you PC, camera, LCD screen, audio amp (with HDMI) asking "IS IT 1080p?" will save you a lot of headaches!</p> <p>Good night and good luck ---Bri </p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/camera-interchangeable-mini35-and-more-advice#post-51058 Thu, 24 Sep 2009 18:56:59 +0000 Mat Grimes 51058@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>I'm in the same boat as you. My budget is more like $5000 though.</p> <p>I am looking at getting the Panasonic HMC 150 which is great camera for a good price ($3500).</p> <p>I'm not sure which 35mm adapter to get. The redrock is $1000. I just want an adapter and lens that I can shoot without having to flip the image in post or while shooting.</p> <p>Any help with an adapter that has a good price and doesnt need to be flipped would be appreciated! </p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/camera-interchangeable-mini35-and-more-advice#post-51055 Thu, 24 Sep 2009 18:23:21 +0000 birdcat 51055@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Have you looked at the Sony PMW-EX1 (or EX3 if you have a bit more $$$).</p> <p>"Survivorman" is shot with the EX1. The EX3 gives you interchangeable lenses. </p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/camera-interchangeable-mini35-and-more-advice#post-51050 Thu, 24 Sep 2009 13:29:33 +0000 heartzz 51050@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Hello everyone,</p> <p>I am currently looking into the possibilities of buying my own camera, i have made some shorts and stuff, but i am tired of not being able to just go out and shooting when i want to because you need a camera.<br /> So what i am interested in? well my budget is about 6000$, I have and still do make independent funded short films of good quality, so i really need the best in my category. Some people say that with good lightning a cheaper camera can be better than a Hdv with bad lightning. I know, i have good lightning people to back me up. I have used the Canon XL H1 with a PS technik mini35 and a 50mm lense, i really had a good DOF and it looked very grainy and filmic. So i am really interested in a interchangeable camera where its possible to mount a mini35 adaptor to get better DOF. What cameras do you suggest i buy?<br /> Some other questions:</p> <p>What a the difference between the canon XL series, which one is best?<br /> What is the commonly known best mini35 adaptor and which one to i get the most out of in terms of price?</p> <p>Btw I am thinking of buying a used camera if possible to save money.</p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/need-advise-on-setting-up-studio-and-buying-equimpment#post-51034 Wed, 23 Sep 2009 20:15:35 +0000 composite1 51034@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>Titan,</p> <p>Sounds like you've got a plan. Up front, since it looks like you're going 'web only' I would say 'full HD' is unnecessary. Keep that in mind while I suggest the following;</p> <p>Okay with so small a budget, you can still get a substantial amount of equipment to cover your needs. Camera wise I suggest getting 2-3 small cameras (CMOS or 1CCD chip variety.) Why? You can get good one's with good imagery for $700 - $1200 (I wouldn't pay more than a grand.) The small cam's are light and when business picks up and you move up to prosumer or pro cam's, you can still use the small ones as 'crashcams'. The tech on these new little cam's are pretty good so I would feel quite safe using them for cut and dry work like you're planning. Since you're going tapeless, I say stick to the flash-based cam's versus the harddrive types. If your camera connections get damaged or the harddrive croaks, your data's locked in. With the card cam's, you just pull out the card. Make sure when you're shopping, the cam's have headphone and microphone inputs. Having those inputs will save you hours of trying to fix bad audio.</p> <p>Now as for the 'HD' issue, truthfully you can get by with standard def preferably progressive scan (that way you can avoid those hideous scan lines that show up when viewing video on computer screens.) But, most of the new cam's out now are 'HD' flavored. Seriously, for web-work I say 720p is the way to go. You're already working in progressive scan, you have a solid enough resolution for greenscreen work and it doesn't look so horrible when you downres to SD. Oh and it takes up less storage space than 1080i or p. Not that those ressie's are bad, it's just you don't want to use an elephant gun to hunt deer.</p> <p>Next, get three lightweight tripods. They don't have to be the most expensive things you can find, but don't get the 'El Cheapo' specials either. You may want to take the cam's outside to shoot stuff and cheap plastic parts will make you regret your purchase. Try to make sure the tripods at least have a leveling device built in so you won't have to fix your crooked video in post.</p> <p>Get one or more small camera bags for your cams. Your camera will thank you for it. Also you'll need to carry, your flash cards, extra batteries, cables and eventually a good mic and some lens filters.</p> <p>Next, a portable lighting kit is a very good thing to have. Starting out I'd say pick up a 3-4 light kit. Lowell makes some great kits for $600-$1200. Don't forget to purchase extra bulbs for your kit. For studio work, you want a tungsten kit. Later if you want, you can just purchase 'daylight' grade bulbs for simulating outdoor lighting. Use whatever cash leftover from the lighting budget to get stuff like gels, diffusion material and supplementary (but cheap) lights.</p> <p>Audio wise, get some good headphones. If you're shooting or editing for long hours you want traditional wrap around headphones vice earbuds. Not to mention the sound quality will be much better. Sony and others make some great sub-studio grade headphones for $90 - $120. They'll also last longer and will be in good shape when you move your equipment requirements up. </p> <p>Next you'll want mics. 1-2 wireless lavalier mics for interviews and at minimum 1 shotgun mic. Audio technica makes some really good lav kits for under $200 bucks. Far as the shotgun mic goes, you can save money by going with a consumer 'on-camera' version and do well or you can get an actual shotgun inexpensively. Just remember, your connections to your cameras will decide what you need or if you'll need a separate adapter. Good cheap brands for shotgun mic's are Audio-Technica and Azden. Make sure to get a separate bag to hold your audio gear.</p> <p>I know all of that's more than a mouthful, but it should get you through. Oh and make sure your computers are capable of pushing HD and meet CS3 or better's system requirements. Even if you're only shooting DV, you want to be able to edit HD if you decide to. Hope that gives you an idea.</p> <p>For your gear search the best place to start is bhphotovideo.com. Great support, great service, decent to reasonable prices. There are other good outfits, but I'd start there. </p> http://videomaker.com/community/forums/topic/need-advise-on-setting-up-studio-and-buying-equimpment#post-51031 Wed, 23 Sep 2009 18:30:33 +0000 TheWildlifeStudio 51031@http://videomaker.com/community/forums/ <p>"Is full HD necessary for this type of application?"</p> <p>That still depends on what use you will be putting the finished clips to. If you do shows or the like where you'd be putting them on a large screen, then go for HD, but if they are just for web use, SD would be ample.</p> </p>